Cuzco

After our night bus, we were in Cuzco for three days before starting another long trek. Cuzco, or Qusqu in Quechua, was the capital city of the Incan/Quechua empire until the Spanish conquest, and is home to many old Incan sites. Even the modern part of the city maintains foundations from the old architectural styles from 500 plus years ago. We visited many sites as we explored the city including: Qorikancha (Temple of the Sun), Sacsayhuaman (fortress), Q’enqo (religious site/labyrinth), Puca Pucara (war barracks), and Tambomachay (water worship). Many of these sites include massive granite stone walls that were quarried kilometres away and brought to be precisely carved, fitting together so perfectly there was no need for mortar. On our last day we wandered around the Mercado del San Pedro prepping for our upcoming trek and enjoying some tasty local cuisine.

Ausangate Trek

The next six days would test our high altitude experience and hiking endurance as we made our way around Ausangate Peak (20,945 ft). We brought all our food since we would not be passing through established towns, but rather indigenous Quechua communities living off the land in stone huts with straw roofs. In Quechua, Abra means pass and Cocha means lake just for reference. See below a map of our route:

Day 1 – Upis trailhead to Laguna Pucacocha

We spent the night in a little town called Tinki, just a short taxi ride from the beginning of the trail. Our hostel host set up a ride for us with his father. The first day of the trek I definitely felt the altitude right away in the form of shortness of breath and slight headaches. After the first pass, Abra La Arapa (15,912 ft), we reached our campsite which was a small rock ring below a fisherman’s hut overlooking Laguna Pucacohca.

Day 2 – Laguna Pucacocha to Vinicuna (Rainbow Mountain)

The second day consisted of two passes; Abra Apachita (16,142 ft) and Abra Warmisaya (16,355 ft). At the top of the first pass there was a Cholita (indigenous woman) with her toddler just casually hanging out at 16 thousand feet selling textiles, snacks, and beer! I got a bracelet and we scrambled down to the Anatapata Lodge. The lodge was built from a collaborative effort from all the surrounding communities as a place of refuge and gathering. After some lunch we made our way over the second pass, then down, then back up to the base of Vinicuna (Rainbow Mountain) for our second night.

Day 3 – Vinicuna to Laguna Ausangatecocha

The next morning we woke up to a blanket of snow! The snow actually insulated us and helped us stay warm. We spent the morning melting snow for oatmeal and our shared yerba mate; while also hoping the snow would let up so we could go see the Rainbow Mountain. I thought this was a pretty special moment together in a unique situation, so I quickly made a little duct tape ring and proposed to Rach :–) She said yes!!! After the sun peeked through the clouds, we slid down the hill and then made our way back over Abra Warmisaya and down to Anatapata Lodge. After a long traverse across expansive valleys we arrived at our next campsite along Laguna Ausangatecocha.

Day 4 – Laguna Ausangatecocha to Jampa Campsite

We awoke to sun and a stunning hanging glacier above the Laguna! After some breakfast we made our way over Abra Palomani (17,060 ft), our highest point on the trek. We chewed some cocoa leaves while taking in the incredible views. Back down we go through many alpaca herds to a nice campsite named Jampa along the river.

Day 5 – Jampa Campsite to Laguna Pucacocha

Our second to last day we trekked over Abra Campa (16,654 ft) which was a long and gradual climb and then a mellow descent. There were some stunning snow capped mountains and a few mountain glaciers here and there. We made our way to the Siete Lagos (7 Lakes) area where we found refuge next to a Cholita’s hut just before a nasty hail storm.

Day 6 – Laguna Pucacocha to Pacchanta

The last day was short and very chill. After packing up camp we traded our Cholita neighbor for the rest of our coca leaves and candies for some bracelets! The trek was all downhill from here and we ran into a bunch of dayhikers from Cusco which made the hike a little slow. We finally reached the end of the trek in the town of Pacchanta which had a super nice hot spring. After soaking our soreness away we grabbed a taxi back to Tinki and then a bus to Cusco. What a trek!

Next stop: Lake Titicaca, then Bolivia!!